With a tough, mentally challenging but at the same time rewarding year of running in 2012, it was time to start 2013 with new experiences and in the process I think I found my second favorite place in the world.
If 2012 was all about speed and a goal unattained, I felt
2013 should be about healing. Seemed appropriate then when my good friend John
called up to say he had just registered for the marathon in Sedona, Arizona and
wanted to know if I would join him. I’d wanted to go to Sedona since my wife
and I hiked the Grand Canyon. On the bus trip to the biggest hole in the United
States (outside of Washington, D.C.) we passed the byway to Sedona and everyone
chuckled about having their aura read, mystic vortexes in the mountains and the
wacky artists that populate the place. It sounded like a cross between Santa Fe
and Haight-Ashbury. I had also heard it was home to some of the most renowned spas
and rock formations in the world.
To make the trip more memorable we decided it shouldn’t be
about the run but a chance to bring our wives and make it a vacation – with a
short 3-4 hour Sunday morning interlude. Boy was this a good decision.
Reesa and I had spent the holidays with family and our work
years had started off fast and furious so a break from the action in early
February sounded like a great decision. We booked bungalows at The Enchantment Resort & Spa, not knowing much about the place other than its excellent reviews on
TripAdvisor.
As for training, I had taken it easy after Santa Barbara and
was running for myself, not the miles. I worked up to 16 because I felt like
it, not because I had to. I had also started the year by focusing on
reconnecting with the SMS running club and making running more social. When it
was time for a 20-miler, I went back to my mainstay – San Francisco to Tiburon
and on an absolutely gorgeous January morning 10 of us took in its incredible
sites and a fabulous breakfast out of the patio behind Sam’s watching the sun
rise over The City.
It was a good omen.
My wife and I flew to Phoenix that weekend then had a
wonderful organic breakfast at The Farm at South Mountain. The place is less
than two miles from the airport and literally is in the middle of a farm. It
was a perfect setting on a beautiful sunny day.
Heading North from Phoenix about 90 miles up we hit the same
scenic byway we had seen that weekend with the hike team but this time we took
the turn and literally no more than five minutes later I got a sense of what
was in store for the weekend. Looking North towards some pretty standard
Arizona desert mountains a crack appeared at the top and behind it was a rich
red stone as we turned the corner further that crack turned into a valley
ringed with rich reds and oranges that created a valley unlike any I had ever
seen. I lost count how many times I said, “wow,” and “amazing.” I drove slow (which
is a big deal for me, as those who have carpooled with me will tell you) looking
for the best, any, place to pull over, step outside and take it all in.
Sedona’s red hills were everywhere we looked and created
incredible formations. Now I know why so many people come here.
We hit the town and nearly ran out of town looking for the
resort. Good thing we kept driving because it was past the town, down deep in a
red rock valley nestled up against the hillside. Constructed in a deep red
adobe, the resort blended in beautifully with the canyon and there were views
of the mountains everywhere you looked.
Saturday we took simple hikes around the valley and visited
the center of town. If you go, know that the attractions here are the nature,
not the town. There’s enough town to sell gear to all the hikers, curios to
take home to the curious relatives and galleries to show off what it seems
everyone does for a living here – make art inspired by the surroundings. I mean
no disrespect to the native economy; even Rodeo Drive would land a distant second
to these mountains.
On race day morning, John and I drove from our resort up to
the race start which sat on a plateau overlooking the incredible mountains. As
the sun began to rise we saw hot air balloons in the distance gliding over the
scenery making for some incredible pictures. The temperature was nearly
perfect. Desert mornings, especially this time of year, can be very nippy but
with no clouds in the sky and the sun rising quickly it was in the mid 40s by
race time. We shed our layers, left them in the car and headed to the start.
How’s this for an envious beginning: The start was a downhill slope overlooking
the canyon so that everyone lined up to race could look straight ahead and see
over everyone’s heads and above the Welcome banner to see the sun turning
sandstone every shade from red to brown. If a gun hadn’t gone off, I might
still be standing there staring in awe.
If there’s any downside to all this natural beauty it’s that
there’s no flat in Sedona – anywhere. Certainly not for 26.2 miles. So the
marathon was a constant up and down. No climbs were significant but the race
starts at 4,000 feet and you go up and down every mile or so gaining 500 feet
at a time.
The course is an out and back through the same canyon where
our resort was located. It starts out on paved roads and about seven miles in
switches to red dirt trails, which felt great on the feet and knees. John and I
started off at different paces so we lost sight of each other after about
three miles. No more than two more miles in and I found myself side by side with Pete a
professor of Forestry at Northern Arizona University, in Flagstaff. He had
driven down that morning to run the race and turned out to be nearly my exact
pace. We shared life and running stories for the next 15 miles. I’m sure he got
sick of me ogling the mountains and constantly muttering, “just incredible”
but if he did, he kept it to himself.
There’s a big reason I run with friends – the miles go by so
much faster and easier. This was certainly the case that day. Normally in a
race with so many ups and downs of this magnitude each subsequent climb would
drain you for the next. But we held pace.
The race was very close to our resort and our wives simply
had to walk about a third of a mile to the fork in the road to see us at around
mile nineteen. As we rounded the bend, there they were and not just waiting.
They had been drafted into the volunteer water stop and were cheering for
everyone. I like to think they cheered a little louder when we went by. I’m
pretty sure I was the only one to get a big hug. :)
Shortly after seeing Reesa, another hill came and I started
feeling the miles. It was warming up as well but I don’t think that was as much
of a factor as the 20-plus miles that were now behind me. During the next
downhill, I slowed considerably wanting to maximize the recovery but that might
have been a bad idea as the next hill was more than a mile long and I didn’t
have it. Pete, and his fresher legs left me, which didn’t help and I found
myself walking a bit towards the top of the hill. The course leveled off again with
less than a mile to go then turned into the small village. I looked up ahead
and there was the finish – up yet another hill.
Knowing I was close, I poured on what little energy I had
left and finished strong. Okay, semi-strong. But felt great. In fact, I felt
amazing. Not because I wasn’t tired but because I had regained what I had lost
in 2012 – the love for running. Nothing beats the feeling of crossing the
finish line after a hard effort and I remembered that this time. It was an incredible
day, in an incredible place. I feel like it healed me.
Thanks, Sedona.
2 comments:
I feel like you were hired to promote the marathon, only because those 'dirt trails' were nothing close to 'feeling great on the feet and knees'. The trail had large rocks and pebbles for the entire 11 miles that I ran it. And also cars passing by, seemingly running me off the road. Sedona has red rocks, cool to look at for 15 minutes. The hospitality around there is the same as it is everywhere in Arizona. California, New Mexico, Colorado, Nevada surround it and all have so much more to offer. I was disappointed with the Sedona marathon and Arizona in general. Don't waste your money or time.
And either stop typing with your elbows or hire an editor...
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